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#1 (permalink) |
Obsessed Scooby
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Cork, Ireland
Posts: 7,475
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Replacing Front ARB Bushes and Links
Level of Difficulty
** Tools Needed: 10mm, 12mm socket and short extension with rachet 14mm Rachet Spanner or Normal Spanner 5mm Allen Key Copper Grease Lithium Grease WD40 Loosen nuts on front wheels dont take nuts off till car secure on axle stands. Jack the car up from the front on both sides secure with AXLE STANDS Take wheels off the car, take underguard off the car 2X10mm and 4X12mm bolts. Apply WD40 and leave for 5-10mins on the droplinks bolts and treads and also soak the 12mm bolts that hold in the ARB bracket to chassis pic 1 and 2. Take the droplinks off FIRST on either side pic 3 open it first with the 14mm spanner or rachet spanner and then it will start to twist thats when you need the 5mm allen key for this shown in the pic. Take note what way their are fitted and what way the washers sit. Might be good for to mark where the ARB bush meets the bar as this will help for refitting later on. Then loosen the 2X 12mm bolts holding the ARB bracket onto chassis seen in pic 2 try loosen the both together and watch as it will drop! on the Classic Shape their a small crossmember so it dont fall but you been warned. Take off the ARB bushes and with the New ones rub Lithium based grease inside of the rubber bush that contacts the bar pic 4, 5 and 6. In pic 6 make sure the ARB bracket lip when refitting bar that it sits inside the frame connected to the chassis, so put on the new ARB bushes to the bar where you marked where the old ones sat, put the ARB bracket round new bush and sit the bush into the groove in the bracket, MAKE SURE THE LIP OF THE ARB BRACKET SEATS INSIDE THE FRAME CONNECTED TO THE CHASSIS pic 6 again. Might be good to put some copper grease on the 2X 12mm screws for the ARB be easier to remove next time fit the bar get one screw in first then dont tighten it till the both screws are in, tighten them up pic 7 and 8. Fit the new droplink whatever side first but only half tighten the new bolts and washer on the first side might need to move the ARB a bit to fit the droplink, you can move the heads of the droplink to make it fit pic 9, then fit the other side and once fitted tighten up the side fully you worked on and the other side. Once all TIGHTENED, good to put copper grease on the treads of the droplinks as they rust in time. Put back on the underguard of the engine tighten the 2X10mm bolts and the 4X12mms. Put back on the wheels and tighten, then lower the car and fully tighten the nuts for the wheels and job done ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Last edited by stiimpreza1984; 28 Aug 2010 at 05:42 PM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
Veteran Scooby
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: That bit in the middle
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Re: Replacing Front ARB Bushes and Links
Nice one fella, always useful to have these guides available. I print them all off and keep them in a file in the garage.
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Veteran Scooby
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: UK-Earth - Search google maps for "The Stig"
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Re: Replacing Front ARB Bushes and Links
not required
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-- .. ... ... .. -. --. / -... ..- - / -. --- - / ..-. --- .-. --. --- - - . -. Last edited by bugeye_bob; 23 Sep 2010 at 07:16 AM. |
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#6 (permalink) |
Cool Scooby
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Barnsley
Posts: 418
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Re: Replacing Front ARB Bushes and Links
extra steps for newage (as ive just done mine) are remove under tray, then from the fron tyou can just about acess the bolts to remove them, this is fiddly and for one you have to use a spanner not a socket ( as bugeye_bob said subframe is in the way)
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#10 (permalink) | |
Obsessed Scooby
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Cork, Ireland
Posts: 7,475
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Re: Replacing Front ARB Bushes and Links
Quote:
search part number here ![]()
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