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cutting out at low revs then wont start for ages help plz
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Old 26 Mar 2005, 07:30 AM   #1 (permalink)
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cutting out at low revs then wont start for ages help plz

hi bought a 95 n reg scooby last week,did the full check list and and ever y thign seemed fine,the guy i bought it off drove me round in it,i then test drove it,seemed great,i then drove it back 100 miles to home and drove like a dream,the next day i went to work started fine in the moring on the way home i was in traffic and it just cut out,and could i start it not for love or money,the engine turned overbut no fire,it did eventually go and got me home fine,but then when i got home and turned the car off i couldnt start it,eventually it does go,but seem to be having this problema lot,it just cuts out when idle not when u driving along,i have just took it for a major full service,new platium plugs and oil and filters and still does it,at the time i filled it up with essos super unleaded,to get me home as i had read that shell optimaz was the best but no shell garage at the time,i have just filled it up with shel optimax but still happened twice last night any ideas guys what it could be
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Old 26 Mar 2005, 09:23 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Sounds like it could be a sensor playing up ??

I would say your best bet is to perform an ECU check if you haven't already done one ??

What you will need to do is climb into the drivers side footwell on your back and look up at the bottom of the steering column. There should be 2 sets of plugs - 2 black and 2 green - they might be taped up out of the way so look hard for them cos they will be there

Next connect the Black ones. OK Turn on the ingition but DONT start the car. What you are looking for is an intermittant engine check light - if it flashes irregularly you have a fault code. Long flashes = unit of 10 short flashes = unit of 1.

So a long flash followed by another long flash and then 4 short flashes would give you fault code 24.

I am guessing that it could be your Idle control valve or maybe the cam/crank sensor. However I won't bore you with the ins and outs of this until you have checked the ECU - get back to us once you have done this mate
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Old 26 Mar 2005, 09:45 AM   #3 (permalink)
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silly question, it might be the immob on the alarm
also the green and black wires are under the steering column
look at this
http://www.derekcarswell.pwp.blueyon...iagnostics.htm good luck
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Old 26 Mar 2005, 09:47 AM   #4 (permalink)
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the link does not work, here you go :wink:

1. With engine at operating temp, turn engine off.

2. Locate the 2 ECU check connectors (under the steering column, consisting of a BLACK male and female and a GREEN male and female connector) NOTE: sometimes they are taped over/together.
With Ignition OFF connect Black to Black, and Green to Green

3. Turn ignition ON (DO NOT START ENGINE) Depress the accelerator pedal to floor and hold for a few seconds, then release.

4. Start engine and drive for at least 1 min keeping road speed above 11 KM/H (this bit is quite hard to do if you live in a busy resident area!)

5. ECU is now reset

6. At this point, the Check Engine light should start to flash the all clear signal (steady 1/2 second interval flashes) If the check engine does not flash, or indicates some other sequence, there is a possible fault present.

7. Stop the engine, and disconnect the plugs under the steering column.

8. (This is what Bob does when we re-map the car and he resets the ECU after adjustment!) ....Take for a run, and select 4th, gently bring the boost up to around 0.7-0.8bar, hold for a sec or 2, and then floor it to see if boost is restored.
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Old 26 Mar 2005, 11:13 AM   #5 (permalink)
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yep did the green and black test,i did just the blackones first and it done 2 flashes and then 3 flashes,i then did the black and green test,and did exactly what you said and the check engine light flashed every half seconf whilst i was driving,so what now guys,thanks ever do much for your time on this
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Old 26 Mar 2005, 11:15 AM   #6 (permalink)
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hi guys again just done the black lead test on its own after the big black and green test and now the engine light just flashes every half second is this normal and is it cured if so ,what was the problem you think
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Old 26 Mar 2005, 11:35 AM   #7 (permalink)
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omg after all that i tried to start it,and still wont start,i connected up the black leads again,now the engine light does 1 long flash followed by a quick flash any ideas on that one guys,thanks
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Old 26 Mar 2005, 05:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
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are you doing what the link says connect both green & black at same time etc etc
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Old 26 Mar 2005, 06:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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STOP mate

You are doing 2 different tests I'm afraid

Just connect the 2 black plugs for historic ECU codes and the green ones and black ones when you want to reset the ECU. Sounds like you have been checking for codes and then wiping the ECU ops:

SO first off just connect the 2 black plugs turn on ignition and tell us the number of flashes - is this the 1 single and then one fast ?? If so then this is Fault Code No.11

Fault code is Crankshaft Position Sensor ! Now this would make perfect sense for the problems you are experiencing.
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Old 26 Mar 2005, 06:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Dont mean to confuse you but what you have been doing is - connect the 2 black ones and you then had a fault code. You then connected the green ones aswell but this does an ECU reset......which wipes all historic fault codes!

Now that you have wiped the ECU and reconnected the black ones it means that the new fault code you have has recently been flagged up - which means that a sensor is definately playing up.

if its the cranks sensor as I have noted above I can provide you with a photo of the sensor in place if that helps. Before you rush out and buy a replacement can I suggest unpluging the connector and removing it......you may find it to be completely carboned up. Spray the thing with some brake or carb cleaner or WD40 to restore the original silver finish. Refit - then plug it back in and see if this makes any difference ?

Its not difficult to remove as there is only a single bolt holding it in place - very easy to remove, clean and refit.
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Old 26 Mar 2005, 06:53 PM   #11 (permalink)
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As promised - heres a photo of the crank sensor



Sorry its a bit blurred ops: but it'll give you an idea
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Old 26 Mar 2005, 07:20 PM   #12 (permalink)
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guys i really do apreciate every thing your doing for me,as soon as its light tomorrow il do 1 black lead test ok,and send you the exact flashing lights ok,il check the crank sensor as well and give it a blast with some carb cleaner and see if that helps,just as another added thing,i drove it to work ok,turned it off for 30 mins come back and i couldnt get it to start for 45 mins then it just started
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Old 27 Mar 2005, 09:19 AM   #13 (permalink)
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morning people,right just connected up the 2 black leadsok,turned on ignition it does 1 long flash follwed by 1 quick flash ok
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Old 27 Mar 2005, 09:51 AM   #14 (permalink)
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ok guys just took out the crank sensor and gave it a good blast with carb cleaner,it looked ok really nice shiny rod,i then refitted it connected up the black leads again and still the same light sequance any ideas boys,thanks again
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Old 27 Mar 2005, 10:16 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Sounds like the sensor is foobarred mate When I remvoved mine it was covered in carbon so a good blast and it was all clean again - however yours sounds like a failure or its faulty

Do you know anyone near you who has a Scoob ?? I was just thinking that you could do a swap of sensors and see if that cures it.....otherwise you'll be needing a replacement I'm afraid. You don't have to buy new BTW you can purchase a sensor from a Subaru Breakers as they check them when they are removed from a smashed Scooby and you will save many pounds.
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