Blown Piston after crankshaft and piston replacement

[Fundikali]

They just started putting the engine back together today. The block had arrived earlier but some documentation was missing. We cleared that up yesterday and the work has began. I will update accordingly. Thanks for asking.

[Fundikali]

Hi, engine rebuild is going on quite ok. I spoke to the garage today and they told me that they've completed the assembly and are mounting it today.

I was watching a video on youtube of someone rebuilding an STI engine and he mentioned that it is important to change the oil cooler because it may get clogged with particles after an enginge failure. I have not heard that mentioned anywhere else before. Does my 2003 STI EJ20 have an oil cooler? Is it something that if not done may cause a problem? If so, must it be changed, can't it be cleaned bearing in mind that my pocket has suffered a serious dent? I'd appreciate some advice on this

[stiimpreza1984]

Originally Posted by Fundikali

Hi, engine rebuild is going on quite ok. I spoke to the garage today and they told me that they've completed the assembly and are mounting it today.

I was watching a video on youtube of someone rebuilding an STI engine and he mentioned that it is important to change the oil cooler because it may get clogged with particles after an enginge failure. I have not heard that mentioned anywhere else before. Does my 2003 STI EJ20 have an oil cooler? Is it something that if not done may cause a problem? If so, must it be changed, can't it be cleaned bearing in mind that my pocket has suffered a serious dent? I'd appreciate some advice on this

I mentioned about the oil cooler on previous post be great if you could get a new one but sure they may be someway to thoroughly clean it but never done it so wouldnt know

[stiimpreza1984]

Would imagine it has an oil cooler aswell

[Fundikali]

Originally Posted by stiimpreza1984

Also check the oil cooler aswell and give it a good clean before going back on engine as it might have metal pieces from the damaged pistons on it sure all these parts be cleaned and checked before reassembling them and replace oil pump as said before

You did mention the oil cooler including the metal pieces. Thanks for that.

[Tidgy]

the standard oil cooler is called the modine if anyone tells you there isn't one, its just a heat exchanger rather than a cooler specificly

[Fundikali]

Hi. So fiiiiinaly the car is back on the road The engine was put back together last week and the garage had thought it wise to let it idle for 24 hrs before they took it out for a road test (I distinctively reminded them about keeping it below 3000 rpm. I've had it now for 4 days now and have done about 110kms slowly trying to work it up to the 800kms (500miles) that you recommended I do at below 300rpm (kinda hard to manage but I have my warning light set at 2500rpm). Next I'm trying to acquire oil pressure and temperature gauges to add on to my boost gauge.

Thank you so much guys for the help you have given me. Your advice has assisted me understand quite a few things about the car and seriously improved my mechanical knowledge. I'll continue testing the ride and update as neccessary.

Just one more question. I do come across these petrol heads who offer all sorts of advice and there's one who suggested that I replace my stock exhaust system with something less restrictive to the air flow and that this could ease the pressure build up in the engine and could prevent the problems I had with cylinder 4. Is this true?

[anilsub]

great news mate..

[Tidgy]

totla rubbish mate, its designed to have it. taking it off can cause issues in itself

[Fundikali]

Originally Posted by Tidgy

totla rubbish mate, its designed to have it. taking it off can cause issues in itself

Cool.

[Fundikali]

Hi, now I come back for some more advice and an update. Update first. I did get the car to 1,500kms then did an oil change. I started building up revs slowly from 2500rpm and now the car has done 1,900kms and I've managed to push it to 6000rpm but it was not puling away as it used to and the boost was not getting past 0.5 bar. One time the CEL came on but once I backed off it went away. So I took it to a tuning garage. They discovered that the car was running really lean and that the MAF sensor was the culprit. They did not find why the CEL had come on.

Now here's where I need advice. They suggested a remap of the ECU to match with our local fuel (I had told them about my detonated piston earlier) and that they can bypass/remove my MAF sensor and also the cat to prevent such a problem (running lean) occurring in the future. they would also setup antilag. They said that they do that all the time with EVOs and STIs, especially those that participate in local rallies. My question is this, should I go ahead and allow them to bypass the MAF sensor and remove the cat (no rules here against that) and have the ECU remapped for that or should I disregard their advice and just fit a new MAF. The car performed well, as expected when we tried it out with another MAF sensor. As always, I'd really appreciate the advice.

[Fundikali]

Hi, now I come back for some more advice and an update. Update first. I did get the car to 1,500kms then did an oil change. I started building up revs slowly from 2500rpm and now the car has done 1,900kms and I've managed to push it to 6000rpm but it was not puling away as it used to and the boost was not getting past 0.5 bar. One time the CEL came on but once I backed off it went away. So I took it to a tuning garage. They discovered that the car was running really lean and that the MAF sensor was the culprit. They did not find why the CEL had come on.

Now here's where I need advice. They suggested a remap of the ECU to match with our local fuel (I had told them about my detonated piston earlier) and that they can bypass/remove my MAF sensor and also the cat to prevent such a problem (running lean) occurring in the future. they would also setup antilag. They said that they do that all the time with EVOs and STIs, especially those that participate in local rallies. My question is this, should I go ahead and allow them to bypass the MAF sensor and remove the cat (no rules here against that) and have the ECU remapped for that or should I disregard their advice and just fit a new MAF. The car performed well, as expected when we tried it out with another MAF sensor. As always, I'd really appreciate the advice.

[Tidgy]

duck me, get your car away from them as soon as possible,m they sound like a totaly bunch of cowboys.

you don't need to do anything with the maf when you remove the cat

[Chris_wrx]

Definately too much reving for a rebuild only a week old. The headgaskets would not have even run in never mind the bottom end. I always say a 1000 miles run in at under 3000rpm. The one very important component I always always change is the oil pump. Poor not to let you know this information.

[kiki]

att: fundi kali,
i have read all the posts and am wowed at all the info. firstly let me mention that i own a 2004 legacy b4 turbo, and i have suffered the same problems with the engine severally, have actually replaced two complete engines and the still wear out the con-rod bearings.cut a long story short.... have just rebuild my engine and started the car yesterday it run and sounded well. but having suffered the problem so many times am a-bit skeptical.
My mechanic now is talking of remapping the ECU as well.... this am not sure of as am totally blank on what happens when you do that.
I am from Kenya as well and sadly enough the best fuel we have even shell v-Power is only at 95 ron. for my vehicle it specifically said in the manual to use 98 ron fuel.
advice i need is 1: should i proceed with the remapping of the ecu,
2: have you found anywhere in our country where one can get this fuel additives that increase the ron rating for fuel.

Any help and from you guys here at impreza forum will be greatly appreciated.
thanks.